In parts of Jeju, where horse meat has long been eaten, an old barbecue method survives: meat set over charcoal, covered with a woven straw mat, and cooked through by the trapped heat. Boreumsup adapts that method to black pork. Held under the mat, heat and smoke work all the way to the center. Nothing escapes, and the flavor fills out completely. The old method was never handed down with a name of its own. Mangwoori-bul means the festival fire lit on nights when the full moon rises. We borrowed the name from daljip-taeugi, the Korean custom of burning a moon house at the year's first full moon.